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When I received an invitation from Chef Leonor Espinosa to dine at her award-winning, flagship establishment, Leo, in Bogota, I didn't really know what to expect. Even after countless of gastronomic travels, I still didn't understand what Colombian cuisine is all about compared to its neighboring cuisine of Peru, Brazil and Mexico. More so, there is limited information online or from fellow food critics what a Colombian fine-dining experience meant.

Revolutionizing a Country and Its Cuisine
Colombia began its reinvention after its tumultuous past in the 90s and early 2000s. It was not until I learned that one of my good friends moved to Bogota that I now had a reason to visit.

Accolades, including the World's 50 Best Restaurant and Latin America's Best Female Chef in 2017, for the restaurant and chef/owner, respectively, definitely piqued my interest in dining at Leo.  It is also run by a mother-daughter tandem - another rarity in the restaurant industry. 

A 101 in Colombian Cuisine
With two of my eating buddies in tow, the receptionist at Leo welcomed us to a spacious, contemporary space in Pasaje Mompox, Centro Internacional in Bogota without the obvious white linens that surround fine dining establishments of its caliber. As our waitstaff started his explanation of our 11-course tasting named as Ciclo-Bioma, I was already bewildered on the list of ingredients on their simple menu, showcasing rare, local meats, vegetables and fruits with the specific location where they can be found in the country.

Yogurt cheese, limonero ants (tropical rainforest), native potato

I came with an open mind and left this establishment not only with a happy tummy but also with more knowledge on Colombian food ecosystem. Even if they provided a short explanation, we did end up doing a quick online search on some of the terminologies, such as the following:

• Mojojoy: insect with medicinal properties from the tropical rainforest
• Caiman: crocodile from the wetlands
• Copoazu or Cupuaçu: a tropical rainforest tree related to cacao
• Ponche: wild rodent meat from the dry forest
• Borojo: Colombian viagra from the tropical rainforest

Tip: Get a crash course in a supermarket of the different Columbian fruits available for the season.

I paid utmost attention to the rare ingredients above and more, while simultaneously enjoying the pairing for each dish. Leo's alcohol pairing is also highly differentiated with mostly homemade, fermented beverages that cannot be found in the grocery or specialty stores. It is definitely not for the weak-hearted, starting with a fermented coca that blew my mind away. I've had coca tea before during my climb up the Machu Picchu, but Leo's coca was sweet and tangy with just the right amount of kick paired with delicate, savory amuse bouche. Thereafter, the white-colored cocktail, albeit pleasing on the eyes, left all of us an unfavorable taste of the salty seas.

Amouse bouche, which reminded me of Dutch bitterballen

Frothy Pacific ocean water

We further cheered our glasses full of Pink Dolphin rose with hints of blackberries and guava that felt refreshing with juicy crayfish floating on coconut milk. Then, we all giggled when it was time to sip on the fermented Borojo, a superfruit known for its energy superpowers, paired with what first looked like a mash up of grassy leaves that complemented the fruity drink.